Mohamed Benmohktar, my excellent food guide from yesterday, picked me up at my hotel today at 5:45 am, just before the blue light of dawn and well before the sun rose.

We started our tour overlooking the bridge across the Oed Bou Regreg that separates Rabat from Salé. This river drains into the Atlantic Ocean from the distant Middle Atlas Mountains.

The morning was fine with a serendipitous smattering of clouds to add interest to our photos. In the right of the above photo is the new Grand Théâtre under construction. If you click on the photo you will see a higher quality image.

We turned our cameras to the Hassan Tower, the minaret of an incomplete mosque built in the late 12th century by Sultan Abu Yusuf Yaqub al-Mansur, the third Caliph of the Almohad Caliphate. The tower is lit at night; we were lucky to catch the lights just before they went off for the day.

From the Hassan Tower we wandered over to the harbour, hoping to catch the fishing fleet coming in with the day’s catch. The fleet was so late arriving that we missed it, but took advantage of the beautiful golden light of sunrise on the water.

Mohamed and I crossed the bridge to Salé and stopped to shoot its underside. The spacious underbelly is home to concerts and festivals from time to time.

We entered the old, walled city through the Bab el-Mrissa, the gate to the Salé medina. Its construction took place between 1270 and 1280 making it one of the oldest, as well as one of the largest, gates in Morocco. I love the beatiful stone carving; verses of the Koran are carved into the third carved surround of the arch.

Our final stop of the morning was at Medersa, a former madrassa which is part of a still active mosque. The madrassa, built between the 14th and 16th centuries, is now a museum, open to the public to wander about and take photos. We arrived just as Medersa opened so had the place to ourselves. The main floor holds a large courtyard with a central fountain (no longer running) and a smaller room which we could photograph but not enter. There were three floors above of small bedrooms that boys aged 12 to 20 or so would occupy for their religious education and training as imams.

The space felt very peaceful. The architecture and tile work were stunning. My photos do not do Medersa justice, but I will post them here so you have some idea of the beauty of this former madrassa.

Mohamed and I headed back to Rabat along the outside of the Salé wall. Green space and containers of trailing geraniums made for a pleasant morning walk. I recommend it!

I was so fortunate to choose Rabat Food Tours and to meet Mohamed Benmokhtar. He has made my first two days in Morocco memorable. You know who to contact if you’re ever coming to Rabat.