We have now crossed the Davis Strait and are back in Canada. The Strait was exceedingly considerate and our crossing was easy which I understand is not always the case. It is quite comforting to be rocked gently to sleep at night.

Our two sea days were filled with fascinating presentations on wildlife and the Inuit culture. Between times I amused myself photographing bits of the ship.

Brendan, the Adventure Canada archeologist who works in “human archeology” rather than the digging type, shared with us the fascinating and heartwarming story of Kaapittiaq coffee, part of the resurgence of Inuit culture program. He started working with Inuit elders in Cambridge Bay to find a way to bring financial resources and jobs to Nunavut. The elders – all women – love coffee so they wanted to start a coffee company. In Nunavut. Hmmm. They also wanted to support other indigenous groups who were working towards the same ends. Hmmm again.

Three years later Brendan helped them form Kaapittiaq coffee, initially sourcing coffee beans from a small, female-led growing community in Peru. A roaster in southern Ontario trained an Inuit resident to manage the roasting process. When advertising was needed, the elders did not want a “southern marketing” firm; they wanted to make their own ads. They took some of their early profits from coffee sales and created a documentary-making school for local youth. Here are a couple of the ads the youth have created.

This company started with a $40,000 micro loan and now donates 75% of its profits to the Kitikmeot Heritage Society which is dedicated to preserving and renewing Inuit knowledge, language and culture.

This afternoon we arrived at Kimmirut on Baffin Island. See the map above. Two agents from Canada Customs were expected to fly in from Iqaluit around 2 pm to process our passports and declarations before freeing us to disembark. However, their commercial flight was unable to take off because of a weather event somewhere – I’m not sure where. So Adventure Canada chartered a 19-passsenger plane for the two agents to get them here, about 3 hours late,

We have now had a lesson in “expect the unexpected.” Our plan had been to tour Kimmirut and learn about bannock making and then go on a hike. Because of the disembarkation delay, we were only able to tour the town. We could have gone on the hike tomorrow morning, however there are wind warnings which mean we have to leave for uninhabited Akpatok Island and take a hike there. Adventure Canada has been great at keeping us up-to-date.

Kimmirut is a community of about 475 people. It has a school and a church and a municipal government. It also has an RCMP detachment with four officers who live in the detachment building. The first language is Inuktitut with English taught in school as a second language. The village welcomed us warmly and provided guides for the tour and the promised bannock at the Visitor’s Centre. Children, in particular, were excited to see us.

Back on board, it’s time to sign off. See you tomorrow!