This morning we left the Ocean Nova for the last time and landed in Iqaluit, the capital of Nunavut, population around 9,000. As our charter flight was not scheduled to leave until 2 pm, we loaded into buses for a tour of the city. The young woman (at least she looked young to me!) who narrated the tour is the Deputy Minister for the Environment in the Nunavut government. She warned us that she was going to tell it like it is, and wow! did she ever.

She spoke of the social problems in Iqaluit – alcohol, drugs and most notably food insecurity. Infrastructure problems are severe. They have suffered 19 power outages so far this year. They also suffer from “negative gravity.” What goes up in the Arctic does not come down. The military built bases that are no longer used but are still there, empty and untended. Not far away are defunct Dew Line installations, no longer useful but still marring the landscape.

Yet throughout her narration, it was clear that she loves the Arctic. She grew up in Cape Breton and has now lived in Iqaluit for 15 years. The North has so many problems that government money could fix, but “it’s up there, no one sees it or has to think about it” feels to the Northerners to be the attitude of the south.

We stopped at the “suburb” of Apex, a spine-jarring washboard road away with paved roads within. We saw old Hudson Bay trading post buildings that a drone entrepreneur has purchased but not maintained. Then back on the spine-jarring road to the Iqaluit Visitor’s Centre and on to the airport for our flight to Ottawa.

For a light-hearted look at the North, watch North of North available free on CBC Gem and also on Netflix.

I mustn’t close out this blog without saying a few words about Adventure Canada. The company walks the talk about supporting the Inuit of the north. The expedition leader, the assistant expedition leader and the expedition host were all Inuit as were another three of the 11 expedition staff. There were three women in the core leadership group of four. The Adventure Canada staff are not allowed to accept tips as they are paid a “fair wage.”

The service was amazing as was the food. Our lexicon was expanded. Rough waters are “swelly and choppy,” and on the zodiacs we could be asked to “skootch” along to make room for another passenger. Lynda’s daily reading of the suggestions from the suggestion box can’t be ignored. The expedition staff acted on suggestions wherever possible. I really can’t say enough good things about Adventure Canada.

I had a “solo room” which was quite small but was enough space for me. I did wonder what the person in the sign on my bathroom door was wearing …

On the topic of interesting bathroom signs, these were the washroom gender signs at the Iqaluit Visitor’s Centre.

Yesterday I found a new favourite flower, Arctic wintergreen. Now I have two favourites, thus revising my personal lexicon.

So long from the Arctic. Thanks for travelling along with me. See you next time.