In 1930, Boston’s population in its North End neighbourhood was 99.9% Italian but people with non-Italian background have moved in with gentrification and the Italian population is now around 30%. Bobby, my food-tour guide who grew up in the North End – he even showed us his childhood home and where he went to school – regaled us with stories of the “old days” and took us to six Italian establishments. Part way through the tour, Bobby’s mother walked by so we met her and felt much more like part of the neighbourhood.

The tour started at 11:30 am with a visit to Antico Forno where we chowed down on a slice of Neoplolitan-style pizza and a serving of rigatoni alla boscaiola accompanied by a glass of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.

This start to the day got my hopes up that there might be a wine tasting at every stop, but alas I was to be disappointed. This was also the last stop with seating though on occasion I found a window sill upon which to perch.

Next up was a visit to Cirace’s Purveyor of Fine Wine and Spirits, established in 1906 and still run by the same family. Bobby, of course, knows the provenance of every Italian shop in the North End. We enjoyed a very small sample of Sogno de Sorrento Lemoncello which Bobby encouraged us to buy. It comes in big bottles and small, and they ship.

Our third stop was at Salumeria Italiana where we tasted a smidgeon of a special olive oil – 😝 – and a very nice balsamic vinegar. Bobby then passed around samples of the establishment’s own prosciutto and a sheep’s cheese infused with black truffle, both very nice. This was followed by a sandwich made with the prosciutto, some salami and the sheep’s cheese. I am told there was a drizzle of the olive oil and the balsamic vinegar, but I could not taste them. And did I mention – they ship if you have a hankering for the sheep’s cheese.

It was now time to taste arancini, rice balls stuffed with angus beef bolognese ragu, sweet peas and asiago cheese at Cantina Italiana where Bobby started his work life washing dishes. He rose to the position of assistant manager and is very proud of the Cantina’s offerings. I have to say, feeling full though I was, I did eat about half an arancini and enjoyed every bite.

Our final stop was at Mike’s Pastry for cannoli, the size of two human hands! Mike’s has been a fixture in the North End since 1931 and now has five stores. One is at Logan Airport with a second soon to be opened in another terminal. Including all the stores, Mike’s sells an astounding 45,000 cannolis per week. Mine was delicious, and I was able to force myself to take a few bites, but I felt I should have shared it with three or four people!

I waddled back to my hotel – the Hotel AKA Back Bay – which is conveniently close to the Orange Line subway. It was time to put my feet up!

This evening I went to Purpose, a Branden Jacobs-Jenkins play at the Huntington Theatre, a convenient 7-minute walk from my hotel. Purpose won a Pulitzer prize and a Tony Award for its Broadway production. My sister Shirley had recommended it, and her recommendations never go wrong. And did I mention that Branden Jacobs-Jenkins is a Princeton alumnus? ☺️ This show was a masterpiece of family relationships – dramatic and very funny but with humanity in its characters. If it comes to a theatre near you, see it!

I have walks and a museum visit or two planned for tomorrow, so stay tuned!