Half Moon Island: 62.4° S, 59.5° W; 0°C (32°F)
Sunrise:  03:33   Sunset:  22:49

Finally we are here!  We anchored near Half Moon Island, a tiny part of the South Shetland Islands within the red circle but too small to be shown on this map.  The captain confided in us today that the trade name for this area is the South Shitland Islands due to typical bad weather.  We were fortunate to have calm seas.  As we travelled closer to land, we attracted many more birds, particularly storm petrels. A southern petrel also hovered around, looking for feed brought to the surface by our propellers.  Shirley spotted a fin whale or two, but I was not so lucky.

A group of Chinstrap penguins treated us to an exhibition of “porpoising” – coming up for breath between dives.  They move surprisingly quickly through the water.

This afternoon we gave our cold weather gear a workout.  Long underwear top and bottom, silk sock liners, heavy woolen socks, jersey sweat pants, jersey top, parka liner, neck warmer, hat, silk glove liners, parka, mitts, boots.  By the time I was fully clothed I (1) was hot, (2) felt like the Michelin Man, and (3) didn’t care because everyone else looked the same.  We donned life jackets, stomped in the disinfectant tray, and clambered into zodiacs to take us to shore.

The IAATC – International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators – has developed strict guidelines around tourism in Antarctica. Only small ships may bring visitors who will be disembarking, partly because only 100 visitors are allowed ashore in any one area at once.  We have 147 on our ship (plus 81 staff), so some of us were dropped in one location and some in another.

Visitors must stay on delineated “people paths” and never veer onto the “penguin highways.”  Our naturalists set out bright orange cones so we knew where we could walk.  Visitors must not get closer than 15 feet to any wildlife.

If however a penguin chooses to approach you, that’s OK, and that’s what happened to me today!  A Gentoo penguin in search of a good stone for his/her nest waddled to within three feet of me today while I was sitting on the beach.  It was fun to get up close and almost personal with him/her (can’t tell!).  Shirley took the photo of me taking a photo of the Gentoo penguin.

Visitors are not allowed to take any food or drink ashore other than a bottle of water, and nothing may be left behind or brought back – even a little stone must not be removed.  The goal, of course, is to ensure Antarctica remains the pristine wilderness it is.

This afternoon we went ashore to visit a colony of Chinstrap penguins.  These penguins are very small and as cute as can be as they waddle and face plant and tummy slide down slopes.  It’s fun to watch them doggedly climb a fairly steep hill to get to their nests from the water.  Chicks were in evidence with either the mother or father attending to their needs.  In another month or so, both parents will leave them to feed, returning – depending on the food supply – in a few days or even a month.

This has been an exciting first day in Antarctica!  Wish you were here!!