On the Move

From Fes to Erfoud- a long drive south
Our wonderful head server!

This morning we bid a sad farewell to the dining manager at our riad. We headed south, away from the foothills of the Rif Mountains to the Middle and High Atlas Mountains.

The Rif (pronounce “reef”) Mountains are home to tribes of Berbers who have cultivated marijuana as a slightly illegal, high quality, supplemental cash crop for generations. Thus when you smoke marijuana from the Rif mountains you are smoking a “reefer.” The authorities most of time ignore the operation because it brings income to otherwise impoverished residents. The marijuana is sold throughout Europe and to Asia and the rest of Africa.

Our long drive through the Middle Atlas Mountains took us to green cedar forests inhabited by macaques (also called Barbary monkeys) and home of at least one ski resort. The village of Ifrane reminded me of Whistler.

Ifrane

After a quick snooze in the bus, I awoke in foothills of the High Atlas Mountains – a more barren landscape with snow remaining on the distant peaks. Issam spotted a nomad settlement near the road and asked the family if we could visit and ask them questions about their lives. When we joined Issam, the man of the house was off working so we chatted with his wife and watched her sweet little daughter play around.

Nomadic settlement

This extended family of 10 stays in the camp during the summer when their 400 sheep are grazing. They also have a home in the nearby village for the winter months. Their camp accommodation is basic. Cooking is done over a wood stove inside the main tent though there is a larger oven for bread. The floor is covered with carpets. There was a set of shelves that held cutlery and pots and pans. The only other furniture in the large tent was a desk with a computer. A satellite dish was outside.

Nomadic family
Four-year-old girl

In the eastern High Atlas Mountains we saw green belts where (in this case) the River Ziz flowed through. The trees in this panoramic photo are date palms. Dates are the sole economic driver of this region of Morocco.

Green belt along side the River Ziz

After a long day in the bus, we reached Erfoud, the start of our Saharan adventure.

 

13 responses to “From Fes to Erfoud- a long drive south”

  1. Terry Avatar
    Terry

    Quite a hike–and such hospitality!

    Like

    1. nancywcaldwell Avatar

      Always the hospitality and friendly people.

      Like

  2. Joan Avatar
    Joan

    I’m glad to see that the mixture of primitive living and modern life persists. I have a picture, taken at Guilgamame (hmmm spelling) well into the Sahara, of a shack, plus camel, nothing else for miles, but a Coca-Cola sign.

    Like

    1. nancywcaldwell Avatar

      I’d love to see that photo when I get home.

      Like

  3. Shelley Avatar

    Your posts ar always so informative. Now I can impress my friends with my knowledge of where the term “reefer” originated.
    Your stop along the way is typical of the OAT trips I’ve been on— random, surprise interactions with locals that make the trip so much more interesting.
    How’s your group?

    Like

    1. nancywcaldwell Avatar

      The group is very congenial and the group leader is terrific. My first trip with OAT is certainly a good one!

      Like

  4. Tracey Avatar
    Tracey

    Have a wonderful time in the Sahara and I’m can’t wait to see you photos from that adventure!

    Like

    1. nancywcaldwell Avatar

      Thanks Tracey. Photos will definitely be forthcoming.

      Like

  5. Paul Avatar
    Paul

    If Rig gave us reefers, the what did the River Ziz give us? Naps?

    Like

  6. Paul Avatar
    Paul

    Oops. Typo. Sorry. I meant Rif gave us reefers…..

    Like

    1. nancywcaldwell Avatar

      I rather figured you meant Rif and reefers. And it’s quite possible that the Ziz River gave us zzzzz.

      Like

  7. Sigrid Avatar
    Sigrid

    Great photos, the little girl must have been very curious about the visitors? They are wearing very colourful clothes, quite beautiful, I think.

    Like

    1. nancywcaldwell Avatar

      The little girl was very shy. It wasn’t til we were leaving that she showed a bit more interest in us. I think we – all 14 of us – were a bit overwhelming in her tent!

      Like

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Our wonderful head server!

This morning we bid a sad farewell to the dining manager at our riad. We headed south, away from the foothills of the Rif Mountains to the Middle and High Atlas Mountains.

The Rif (pronounce “reef”) Mountains are home to tribes of Berbers who have cultivated marijuana as a slightly illegal, high quality, supplemental cash crop for generations. Thus when you smoke marijuana from the Rif mountains you are smoking a “reefer.” The authorities most of time ignore the operation because it brings income to otherwise impoverished residents. The marijuana is sold throughout Europe and to Asia and the rest of Africa.

Our long drive through the Middle Atlas Mountains took us to green cedar forests inhabited by macaques (also called Barbary monkeys) and home of at least one ski resort. The village of Ifrane reminded me of Whistler.

Ifrane

After a quick snooze in the bus, I awoke in foothills of the High Atlas Mountains – a more barren landscape with snow remaining on the distant peaks. Issam spotted a nomad settlement near the road and asked the family if we could visit and ask them questions about their lives. When we joined Issam, the man of the house was off working so we chatted with his wife and watched her sweet little daughter play around.

Nomadic settlement

This extended family of 10 stays in the camp during the summer when their 400 sheep are grazing. They also have a home in the nearby village for the winter months. Their camp accommodation is basic. Cooking is done over a wood stove inside the main tent though there is a larger oven for bread. The floor is covered with carpets. There was a set of shelves that held cutlery and pots and pans. The only other furniture in the large tent was a desk with a computer. A satellite dish was outside.

Nomadic family
Four-year-old girl

In the eastern High Atlas Mountains we saw green belts where (in this case) the River Ziz flowed through. The trees in this panoramic photo are date palms. Dates are the sole economic driver of this region of Morocco.

Green belt along side the River Ziz

After a long day in the bus, we reached Erfoud, the start of our Saharan adventure.