Otavalo is an uplands city surrounded by volcanoes, most of which are active. The northern region is known for its woven alpaca sweaters, shawls, carpets, wall hangings … you name it.  Saturday is market day when artisans from miles around bring their wares to Otavalo to sell.  Gonzalo tells us that market day is as much about socializing as it is about selling.  When else can folks catch up on the local gossip?

We are staying at Hacienda Cusin, an old family farm founded in 1602, that must be the cutest hotel in northern Ecuador!  There are glass double doors leading to my room which comes with double bed and full bathroom.  Last night when I went to bed, I found a hot water bottle hiding under the sheets.  The restaurant in the hotel uses only vegetables from its own organic garden and changes the menu every day.

An Englishman bought this property some years ago thinking it would be fun to own.  While he renovated and modernized the property, he maintained the historical aspects of it.  It is full of art and religious decoration, not because the Englishman is religious, but because a local church was de-sanctified and since there was a monastery attached to the property, the religious items landed up here.  The only non-Ecuadorian feature is the English garden.  Ecuadorians think gardens consist of shade trees, not flowers!

We visited the market today, a smaller version than the major weekly gathering, but still with lots to see.  I loved the vendors who were welcoming but not pushy except for a belt hawker who trailed around after me – he must have thought my pants were falling down!

The colours were vibrant and enticing.  I decided it was my duty as a guest in this country to leave the economy a little better off for having been here.  I purchased a few gifts – can’t tell! – and a colorful painting from the artist herself.  I was tempted by the wall hangings but happily I demurred as we next visited a small weaving establishment where we learned how natural colours are made and used in weaving.  A stunning wall hanging called to me I no longer could resist.

Lunch today was at the home of Martina Pupiales and Juan Carlos in the San Clemente community outside Otavalo.  I would call the community a cooperative; families specialize in producing certain foods, for example, and trade for other products.  They also engage in market activities.  Juan Carlos is skilled in woodcraft and makes furniture from cedar.  No plywood or veneers, only solid wood.  We toured his workshop where he was just finishing an order for a child’s bed that looks like a canoe with two matching night tables.

He will sell the suite for $650 to a furniture store in Cuenca which will then sell it for $1,200 or so.

Martina and Juan Carlos purchased their land and landscaped it with many lovely flowering plants, most of which can be eaten or have medicinal properties.  Martina took us on a tour of her garden with Gonzalo translating and elaborating with some history and cultural information.  It was a beautiful day, sunny and warm, and a treat to be out and about.

The best part of the day was a dance performance by a group of local children.  They were mostly girls from 6 years old to about 10 or so, and a few bashful boys.  The girls wore beautifully embroidered blouses and skirts to match with colorful belts.  The boys wore white shirts and trousers topped off by red ponchos.  The finale came when the children approached us and led us by the hand to dance with them.  The steps were not difficult – we first danced around a circle in one direction and then in the other.  It was surprising how quickly we felt winded and fatigued, but we are at an elevation of 8,500 feet where the air is a little thinner than at home.  But it was great fun being included as part of the show!

Hasta la próxima vez!